The Rule of Three
When it comes to eye makeup, three is a magic number. Remembering the rule of three is a tiny thing that will go a long way in improving your eye application skills.
Many of my clients seem afraid of eyeliner underneath the eyes. I get it: you don’t want it to look too dark, you don’t want your eyes to look smaller, you don’t want to look harsh. . . all valid concerns. However, if the way you reconcile these concerns is to draw the liner only half-way under your eyes… not such a great idea. When someone looks you in the eyes, they are distracted by the abrupt end of a line directly underneath the pupils. And instead of noticing your expressive eyes, they will be staring at your makeup. Not the way you want to make a first impression.
Instead, I recommend using the rule of three: facing directly into a mirror, your iris (the colored part) will divide your eye into thirds. Instead of half, draw your eyeliner two-thirds of the way in (starting at the outer corner). Remember to smudge and blend the end of the line so it gradually fades out. If you wish to highlight the inner corner of the eyes with a lighter color, this should go on the inner third, so bring it all the way to the start of your iris. By keeping to your eye’s natural proportions, you guarantee that your makeup will be flattering to your own shape.
Other tips to lining under your eyes?
*Apply a thicker, smudgy line instead of a thin, sharp line. A thicker line actually looks softer and less harsh.
*You don’t have to use black for liner. Try brown, taupe, copper, grey or any other color instead if you worry about looking harsh.
*Try using shadow and a small brush instead of liner. The shadow will give definition without closing the eye in.
*If your eyes are close-set, use a darker color on the outer one-third, and repeat this color on the upper one-third in a sideways V shape.
*A skin toned liner on the lower inner rim will make eyes appear brighter, and works great if your eyes tend to appear a little red.
*For a smoky eye, line the entire bottom, all the way into the inner corner. Then use a smudger to drag the liner down, gradually fading it from dark to light. Then set with shadow. Don’t forget to line the inner rim of your eye to complete the smoky look.